February 22, 2016
Sylvan Park: Nashville’s Greatest Plate Lunch Restaurant
For dipping and mopping the juices and for serving as uncomplicated punctuation among the assertive flavors, Sylvan Park offers tender little biscuits with great absorbent qualities as well as tangy cornbread muffins with a rough texture that crumbles nicely over a serving of creamy white beans.
Sylvan Park is known also for its pies: chocolate, butterscotch, egg custard, sweet potato. They aren’t pretty. Cut to order in the kitchen, a slice often arrives half-fallen-apart on the plate. That’s because these pies are very, very delicate with fragile meringue on top of the creamy ones. A highly recommended alternative to pie, when available: banana pudding. Its flavor is huge, and it is made the classic southern way, with softened vanilla wafers and streaks of meringue throughout the balmy custard.